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カテゴリ：ワイン☆Wine( 28 )
2012年 07月 04日
2011年 12月 20日
I had a fantastic opportunity to visit
an old friend Franz Weninger in October.
The weather was fantastic and the grape harvest
got also just over. I had a quick grasp on the new vintage
but most wines were still fermenting in the tanks.
The vintage 2011 is incredible,
almost all wines outperformed the previous years',
especially the Cabernet Franc and Spern Steiner terroir wines
looked world class. Franz told me the good news
about the great sales in the year really much helped
by the expanding exports to all over the Globe.
I met two apprentices from Germany and we altogether
with Franz had a lovely dinner with many
and many bottles of wines to be tasted!
I liked many, so far the Cabernet Franc 2002 showed a rich complexity
with a bouquet of sage and Russian tarragon
which often switched to lots of wild berries and black truffles.
On the palate a completely different image wine appeared
with robust acidity and long finesse which switched
between the bitterness of lemon zest and the softness of ripen tannins.
It has recently reached its plateau, but should be still
on the top for 1 or 2 years. A dynamic wine,
but needs the right type of Burgundy glass and many hours
of decanting to explore it!
Next day Franz showed me around the vineyards,
I was amazed by the natural areas in proximity of Frettner,
I started to love that terroir too! and
because it is a young plantation compared
to the 50 years old Spern Steiner therefore it always
under-performed. But from vintage 2009,
Frettner terroir has started to show individual character
(probably due the dry summers when grape roots quickly root
deeper and deeper to find water) with higher mineral content.
I will pay a much closer attention on Frettner too in the future.
Well done Franz, your patience and precise work starts
to yield its results! We wish you all the best and keep up
the your outstanding terroirs!
2011年 11月 15日
2011年 08月 09日
The history of Gere Attila wine career began
with setting up an extremely successful collaboration
with the father of jun.
Franz Weninger back around in 1990 just after the collapse
of Communist Regime in Eastern Europe.
In those turbulent times, both men developed together
a new school of vti- and vinification.
They reduced the yields of grapes to 2-3 tons per hectares
(they pruned several times the vines, what a hard work it is!)
and aged the wines in well toasted barrique barrels for up to 2 years.
Then bottle ageing was also carried out in the cellar,
to assure that wine shops receive the best of the best.
Those highly concentrated often black colour wines,
produced only in couple of thousands of bottle per annum were
highly sought after by the new wine fans.
Nowadays, after 20 years, many young and talented superb wine
makers popped up in Villany too,
who also achieved decent world ranking with their excellent wines.
At Gere Winery, where the standards of strict pruning
and yield reduction have remained but the emphasis
on the barrique barrels has been shifted toward classic barrels
which benefits to preserve the natural character of the wines
(the same changes are appeared in Weninger’s Sopron Winery).
Also now the total 60 hectares of plantation follows
organic methods of cultivation,
which further ascends the quality of the Gere wines!
2011年 08月 09日
For this summer’s wine collection we decided to import natural wines
from South West of Hungary called Villany.
Villany is a tiny wine region with only 2100 hectares of vines,
where the rock layer is lime, the subsoil is ferric clayey
and the topsoil is based on loess.
The climate is Continental Mediterranean
where the summers are hot and dry while the winters are mild and wet.
If I have to describe with few words the temperament
of Villany to the foreign wine enthusiasts, then:
its soil is like a mixture of Southern and Northern Rioja,
its climate is just like in Langedoc-Roussillon,
and its red wines are complex and passionate just like in Provence.
The white grapes generally produce simple and easy-to-drink wines,
suits to any gastronomique ordinaire course.
The roses are everywhere important in Villany yielding crispy,
heavier yet elegantly fruity wines for the serious wine-lovers.
The reds, which are the main grapes of the area always produced
in full spectrum from the light body local varieties
to the vintage full body world varieties.
These reds have complex and silky structure
and step-by-step evolving layers
(usually 3 at least, later I will give a better explanation on this),
which force us to consume these wines rather carefully and peacefully.
Most importantly most of the Villany wineries operate
on small scale where traditional methods of viticulture are used.
The local Hungarians keep their blended heritage
of emigrated German people, concentrating
on high quality production of wines
and other agricultural and folk goods meanwhile maintaining
their beautiful and clean environment.
We are getting close to March now and honestly
this February has been one of the mildest since I came to Japan.
Of course it was coupled with the fact,
that this January was the coldest month within ten years time back.
The precipitation figures are even more frightening,
if we add rain/snow data in our area
for adding together November till February,
we had less precipitation altogether
than the single today`s rainfall (approx 90 mm).
These extreme weather factors messed up my winter plans too,
nothing could be sown as a business usual way.
But the new challenges do not let the garden
to look bare and empty.
The sowings were done even if it was freezing cold often
and I had to water the seedlings 20-30 times
for becoming independent of me.
Very often the seeds resisted to my calling words
to sprout and decided instead to stay under the warmer ground level.
For example the prolonged germination
of broad beans attracted the field mice to my beds
and had a wonderful crunchy meal of the large bean seeds in the soil.
But life goes on, with the help of new seeds,
I re-planted everything where damage occurred.
We all need food in the spring,
so I ought to be stubborn enough not to stop working all day
for our daily needs!
Red wines…I just found an interesting research result,
which concludes that red wine has a positive effect
of combating poisonous cell formation already in the stomach
before dissolving into the blood.
Scientists always thought that the mechanisms
of wines should be exclusively studied in the human blood,
which highlighted the red wines positive influence on high blood pressure,
cardiologic problems, diabetes, many sorts of cancer including leukemia.
The research highlights the importance to think
of red wine as part of the meal,
since its mechanism in the stomach can be effective
if food+red wine combination takes place.
The article from the Economist;
People often think that red wine only suits to red fish or meat.
Of course this really depends what variety of grapes we have
and of course its individual characteristics which a wine can display.
For example I am trying to find those Weninger wines,
which could suit to simple lightly sweetened
and simple flavoured desserts, such as a polenta cake or a rice parfait.
Just think of a gorgeous meal, which just needs a light finish,
obviously an Opera or Mont Blanc will not be the right partner.
So given these simple cakes I found that Cabernet Sauvigon 2008,
Merlot-Cabernet 2006 and Cabernet Franc 2006 perfectly harmonise
with any of the homemade cakes! The Kekfrankos 2004/7 were better
with biscuits and lemon tart.
Anyway it could be an interesting position of red wines
that could finish off the diner with desserts!
2011年 02月 08日
Today finally I could open up the last two ones, the grand wines. Weninger bottles these wines without any filtration (sur-lie), but more interestingly, the wines do not get any physical refinement in the barrels (non-refined) too (also yesterday’s Merlot-Cabernet is also without any cosmetic treatment). Every wine should be bottled with this kind of naturalness, then we could always drink healthy wines! So please do not be surprised if larger amount of deposits will be in the bottle, it is just a sign how naturally undisturbed these wines are!
Cabernet Franc 2006 (Barrique, Frettner terroir)
A character franc, which has almost nothing sign of any excess of the raw barrels. The tannins are fantastically round, the fragrance is always deep and cool and elegant, of course, wild berries on sequence. The velvety structure is a massaging treat for the throat and keeps this wine in a perfect harmony. If you have a bit of time for decanting, then you will benefit from a very sweet experience, like from a Lowland Single Malt whisky. An absolute pleasure for an after diner.
Kekfrankos Spern Steiner 2004 (Barrique)
It is also another terroir wine which possesses completely different particularities. It starts with wild herbs like yarrow, plantain and other bitter herbs. This absolute full body in Kekfrankos I have yet to see, although I have tasted a couple of hundreds of Kekfrankos! When I first detected the lavender taste it really shocked me then soon bitter-sour fruits came to dominance like crab apple and cranberries. But of course this is just the overture, because this wine, like a hurricane, pulses out in almost every minute a new note. The aftertaste is just like any good Spern Steiner, is full of bittersweet and salty minerals, but in a huge concentration. After decanting the wine smoothens, but remains a wild player with spiciness. A wine for those who search for the origin of wines.
2011年 02月 05日
We have waited so long for the new latest wines to come from Hungary! Thank you very much all for your unexhausted patience and the presence is here 5 types of red wines which can dramatically change your views about red wines and organic biodynamic wines…and no need for hours of decanting…Let`s see how!
Cabernet sauvignon 2008 (‘aszok’ Hungarian 500 litres oak barrels)
The youngest candidate is the 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon, a delicately full-bodied cabernet, with the standard fragrances of blueberry, blackcurrant and grassy notes. But within minutes it starts to become cheerfully playful and complex spices appear from cinnamon to rosehips. The full body is well built on the kinder acidity and tannins creating an already enjoyable, pleasing wine for the fruity wine lovers. The aftertaste is medium long (at the moment) with deep sweetness.
Kekfrankos ‘Balf ‘Balf’ 2007 (‘aszok’ Hungarian 500 litres oak barrels)
This wine was a real puzzle for testing. Somehow every time we smelled the glass or drunk it, this wine showed a completely different face. I would rather call this wine a Mark Rothko multiforms painting. Just like Rothko`s colour blocks, here also the characters do match one after the other: starts with plain oak barrel then sour cherry and very much cherry later…all Kekfrankos signs but in an artistic appearance. The wine is incredibly drinkable and matches to a very wide range of dishes from sea-fish to wild meat (see picture with venison salami from Nagano).
Merlot-cabernet sauvignon 2006 (aged in used barriques for 2 years)
This is a great wine with great difficulties to give a proper description. This wine being non-filtered and un-refined, is so much alive and powerful that blows up the senses of the beholder! Herbs, spices, fruits and vegetables, many of them appear frequently, the two types of grapes give an unbelievably rich chassis to this wine. The full body and very long finesse with plenty of saltiness are necessary requirements to this wine!
Today`s wine is so unconventional,
that I could stop writing its description right here and right now.
Is it really a wine, we indeed need to pose the question.
This Sardinian wine presents 17 percent alcohol.
The wine is hand bottled and hand-numbered.
A real manufactory wine. The drink is non-filtered by looking at it,
and does have little red pigments which make it transparent,
but cloudy purple. The wine shows a great body
without any intensity of colours.
The fragrance is intensively magnifique and fantastic.
The various over-ripen, sun-dried and jammed fruits play the key parts.
It is a real treat to note the jam of following, always changing fruits:
plum, quince, cherry, mango and dragon fruit.
These warm and oily fragrances are supported in the background
with cinnamon`s spiciness.
The taste continues the jams, moderate sweetness
with medium finesse of bitter, herblike sensation.
The minerals are rather missing, but the grapes are grown on lime soil,
so there are other things we can search in this wine: there is an amazing peacefulness of balance concerted between high alcohol and sugar,
light tannins and lively acidity.
The empty glass radiates out the notes of cashew nuts
and dried blueberries. Very elegant and light, reminds me those
and better older generation of Tokaj Maslas back in the 1990`s…
Sardinia must deserve more attention; it is now high time
to discover the oldest part of European viniculture with great care.
Andi, is a good friend of me stocks this wine in his Motomachi shop, Kobe.
If you are interested in non-conventional wines,
then Andi is a superb expert on the subject.
This Ginafranco Manca wine needs to be explored very patently,
like when we read a Jasunari Kawabata novel…
Highly recommended but should be drunk within two years.
2010年 12月 18日
フランツ ヴェニンガー氏の（ショプロン産地 バイオダイナミック農法）