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カテゴリ：レストラン☆Restaurants( 22 )
2011年 11月 04日
we spent a very exciting time in Dubai,
The place is a paradise for those who appreciate the meeting points
between different Continents.
In the Arab Emirates we can find North African,
Easter European and Middle Eastern food cultures
on the streets wherever.
In Dubai the choices of restaurants are endless,
but there was a must not to miss: Gordon Ramsay's Verre.
The place is located in the Hilton Hotelin Dubai Creek.
You might remember how many times
I have admired Ramsay's genious ideas.
This man's immortal cook book,
The Four Seasons shifted my interest
from cereal growing toward gastro-gardening.
I was in college in England
and our teachers completely embarrassed me
with their total neglience for flavours.
We studied organic and biodynamic farming
which over time became just catch words
in the confused world of organics.
I slowly recognised that good gardening has to approach
just like Ramsay's cooking advice: 'taste, taste and taste'
and top results will yield.
I cannot thank more to anyone but to Gordon Ramsay.
But I really hope that this review will still be impartial
and valid for you to decide whether to dine out in Verre.
I opted for the 6 course gourmet menu,
there are shorter menu choices with a couple of a la carte.
Upon arrival I was sat at the entry hall
and offered a crispy oil-free shrimp tapas
with a very delicately sweetish and moderately peppery salsa.
The whole service was unbeliavely friendly,
attentive and supportive from the first moment.
The minestrone,a standard soup,here was an amazing joy to explore.
The top of the soup was much cooler than the the bottom,
the temperature differences played in the mouth.
The spiciness was very sophisticated with the fresh tarragon,
which gave the skeleton for the vegetables.
At the bottom there was a layer of de-skinned pearl beans
with a fantastic crunchiness.An unforgettable soup!
The wines were modestly priced
and the glass options were incredible.
My choice fell on a bottle of Lebanese rose,
Chateau Ksara 2009 Sunset.
The name was a hit, really the wine switched
between obscure fruitiness of pomegranate
to the heavier dates with a finesse of cinnamon and nutmeg.
The minerality made this rose very masculine,
but surely Japanese ladies too would die for it!
The raw tuna wrapped
in wafer was a true art nouveau sculpture on the plate.
The pickled barletta onions (very popular in Dubai)
brought balance to the waferred fish.
Very much remined me to the saba sush
i with its similar vinegar taste and texture.
The lobster ravioli is a famous Ramsay signature dish
i always wanted to try.
Here Nick Alvis head chef and Scott Price executive chef
pulled out with such an excellence that I had to resign.
One piece of decent size ravioli in which every details were perfect.
The temperatures,the juiciness and sweetness of lobster,
the ravioli's perfect pastry,extreme simplicity;
all everything lifted up my senses to the Nirvana.
The next dish was a lamb with roasted pig's skin
and home-dried tomatoes with tchingensai.
The sauce was a stock reduction,
which gave me the mood of my old times spent in the Yorkshire Moors.
But the sourness of the home-dried tomatoes
offered a rather sharp accompaniment
with the lamb which cancelled the need for any side dish.
The desserts I ate in Japan were often light-handled
and downgraded my overall picture of dining.Here,
at Verre, simple classics were made
with an astonishing detail and naturalness.
The creme brulee with fruits was offered
with Ramsay's unique baking technique:
a form free brulee.Evolving textures and flavours
with the cream and charamel topping calmed down
the tasting buds successfully.
The petit fours was the right finish for this amazing menu.
The chocolate ball with mint inside,
the right hardiness and the high concentration
of cocoa butter made me enjoy this dessert for several minutes,
the mint at the end played much longer in the mouth.
It might have suited well with a glass of Highland Park.
I had a fantastic dinner there,
I still do not have a clue
why Verre has not received its welll worth 3 Michelin stars.
Nick and Scott are both very enthusiastic and knowledgeable chefs,
our after dinner conversation in the kitchen even strengthened
my view how superb these chefs are!
They work under very difficult conditions
in a country where fresh ingredients are not easily obtainable,
but still with the little they have they produce an authentic
and a world class of their.
Thank you all, the whole experience was really fabulous.
We are happy to announce
that Orenchi has moved his restaurant
to a much more frequented
and more spacious place within Osaka!
The new restaurant consists
of a fancy bar with a half open kitchen to the hall.
The new kitchen has everything
in equipments to cook on a very high level.
But the greatest points for me were the natural wooden floor,
which requires you to leave your shoes
at the entrance plus the fantastic stylish cellar
which can house more than 800 bottles of wines!
Well, that is great news for the jun.
Weninger wines which can tasted from the 2004 vintage on!
We are wishing all the best
to the renewed restaurant,
which has really deserved this opportunity
to be reborn on thee 5th October!
Please don’t miss a visit!
2011年 08月 28日
During June we had a chance to dine
with our best food journalist friend in a new restaurant in Nihonbashi, Osaka.
The place situates on an old street,
where the local shrine determines
to maintain the original looking of the milieu.
The evening lights are missing, as well as the ugly Japanese electric cables.
Of course, the choice of position for this restaurant was not coincidence.
La Cime lead by Takada Chef represents Escoffier’s cuisine classique
in almost every aspect.
The interior is luxuriously spacious with high sealing and distances
between tables offering very Western atmosphere.
The wine list is very extensive with fine choices
from almost every corner of France
from budget bottles from 45 USD to vintage wines up to 3,000 USD.
We stayed by a smoky and crispy 2006 Pouilly-Fume,
which suited to the hot day.
The sommelier, Kevin, a young with all the talent
for serving the guests, was throughout cheerful and hospital.
When we went the theme of the chef was the cuisine of Bourgogne,
with plenty of dishes with white and red wine sauces,
in which vegetables and herbs were carefully incorporated,
a very typical way of cooking in Burgundy.
The service a la russe was extremely smooth
and we could have some space to discuss between the dishes.
To be honest I missed this type of cooking in Kansai area,
which has been blooming in Tokyo with great success.
At the moment the customers in Kansai do prefer to dine out
in nouvelle cuisine, because the people here historically prefer light meals.
In contrast in Kanto area from Edo period people tend to eat saltier
and excessively marinated food which can match
with the European version of heavy and thick sauces,
like Takada Chef prepared for us.
Not everyone’s piece of bread.
But as a European born guest, I could recall my memories
of the 1980’s restaurants…
but I wish I could have enjoyed this dining in the 1960’s:
2011年 07月 20日
The subject of Narisawa San’s art still haunts me from day to day.
I needed to look back to the last century, precisely,
to the beginning of Nouvelle cuisine
For example the lemon tart and acacia honey
and flower ice cream duo I ate was as lightly appearing
in my mouth as Fredy Girardet’s Passionfruit soufflé in Lausanne.
There is no doubt that it is very difficult to create such lightness
with long and harmonising finesse
of the acacia’s perfume and the lemon skin’s zest.
The wild pigeon with asparagus Ezio Santin’s trademarks appear
with the understanding of the flying bird needs to be treated differently
from the running and swimming birds and also from domesticated pigeon.
The wild pigeon breast maintained the oral sense
of flying and Picasso’s Peace pigeon came to my mind.
It was overwhelmingly delicately roasted,
which has a better demonstration on another blog
with beef and cardoon version:
Fortunately, unlike many new restaurants,
the whole course menu was exceptional in quality and presentation,
on each and single plate there was something serious highlight,
which delighted my heart.
Even the wholemeal bread was prepared in situ at the table,
the best way to enjoy it!
I can recall Gordon Ramsay saying
that any competent restaurant must pay attention
of the freshly prepared bread products.
Here it was the case for sure!
2011年 07月 18日
During this June I spared some of my time
with going around the restaurants.
I was really hungry for something real Italian…
By the way what kind is the Italian cuisine?
It is luxurious looking yet made of using simple
and inexpensive ingredients.
The Italians, who first used the fork for dining,
have been the most exquisite chefs of the world
since their Etruscan civilization began.
The Italians are the best breeders for culinary vegetables,
fruits and spices.
Their knowledge of the world food has been most historical
due to their sanguine for traveling the globe
(just to mention the Venetian and Istrian merchants)
And we should never dismiss their perfect knowledge of wilderness,
like truffle, anchovy and capers!
Anyway Italian food radiates sunshine, peace, relaxation,
the Italian dining is always for forgetting the job and close ourselves
in the bubble of the our own family and friends.
Eating Italian is like going home,
where we were born from.
Like reading any Petrarca poem or any Pavese novel!
The Italian food`s closest friend is the Japanese,
which also embraces the ingredients from all around the world,
and are prepared with profoundest simplicity…
The taste constantly has a focal point around the delicacy
and natural respect for the mountains and sea,
which it causes on our palate, the concept of ‘umami’.
In Italy this is the homely feeling
which a dish can create for the individual.
Shun who spent several years in Piedmont and Tuscany
came back to Japan with the skills and kind heart
and now cooks in Ristorante Hiro in Osaka.
Shun`s imagination and creativity of using the non-standard ingredients climbs above any chef I have ever met in my life.
How he employed unusual herbs, like Agastache foeniculum
(a mint plant with verbena characters) for the blackberry jelly dessert,
made me really surprised. The rue (Ruta graveolens),
a difficult spice to play with,
became an electric shock for my tasting buds in the gelato,
stayed on my palate at least for half an hour!
The beets ravioli, another point, without any meat,
was a real Italian treat for its lightness and simplicity.
The ravioli was extremely thin yet firm and crunchy:
what a difficulty to make such a ravioli!
Shun`s passion of the course menu had a clear logic,
which kept the fires low but the enjoyment high.
Shun`s fish dishes, especially the Japanese dory,
which was roasted with raw coriander seeds,
made the point of the dinner.
But the skate carpaccio with fresh leaves
from the garden was just as fantastic.
Please enjoy studying the pictures,
and I have to recommend Shun`s cooking for his originality
and sense of Italian imagination and profession for Japanese fish,
which altogether create an unforgettable dining experience!
Thank you Shun so much,
soon we are going to go out to sample your daily changing menu again!
Without any doubt, Shun`s art lifts him up amongst the world class chefs!
Recommended song from the old UB40:
2011年 07月 03日
During this turbulent June,
which started rather cool and wet,
offered me some space to travel around the restaurants
who we have offered vegetables.
as being number 12th on the St Pellegrino’s world rating,
has been a frequent visitor in our garden,
where we have been able to share nouvelle thoughts
about cuisine naturelle.
He is the highest profile chef ever came to our garden,
his galaxy of knowledge and understanding
about the large world of cooking commands great efforts
from me to follow his conversations!
The restaurant has a futuristic setting
with large and empty surfaces and plain wood and white walls.
Every single piece of the special menu
I was offered was prepared by Mr Narisawa.
In agriculture we often emphasize
that everything starts from the soil.
Now here this concept got into Mr Narisawa’s idea and became the starter.
The aperitif house champagne was a well balanced,
more classical type, where acids are squaring the mouth.
Beautiful entrée followed with radish and ‘soil’ pieces (charcoaled soybeans).
The game is simple here: the two pieces match perfectly
on the tongue where the hardness
of radish is softened the fatty beans. Superb.
2011年 06月 19日
This spring has been bewitching us since the monsoon
and the spring coincided without any uprising temperatures
from the end of May.
Of course this is a good news who love spring vegetables
(which I really do) and a bad news to most farmers
who concentrate on mainly summer crops.
This is the main reason we are not able to harvest a single type
of summer vegetables yet now.
We had a chance to visit a new Basque charcoal restaurant
in Kobe called Parilla Nuda, a sister gourmet place of Etxebarri.
Victor, the owner chef has taought Sakai San
how to make the perfect fire conditions for preparing all sorts of dishes
from the starter to the ice cream dessert.
The restaurant holds a minimalist atmosphere
whish is delighted by the sommelier, Mr Nishikawa and the Chef Sakai,
who carry on their inner passion for the designated customers.
From the menu we tasted I could draw some conclusion
what you can expect with the technique of charcoal
(maybe you already have observed such at any barbecue session).
The flagrances of fish and meat are often amplified
where smoke does not interrupt it.
The squid with red onion slices dish for example
we received had a powerful perfume of the sea
and behind the sweetness of the red onion
made a counterbalance with its discreteness.
The petit pois dish with pea stem was an honestly minimalist plate
with just perfectly cooked peas!
Several bits and pieces are still under the way in this place,
but as we know Sakai San, everything will soon be sorted out,
so the Michelin reviewers will be able to make correct judgment on the place.
The wines were excellent with this kind of smoky foods,
the very much favourite of mine was the Langedoc-Roussillon.
Frankly saying ,
next time I give a chance to the extensive sake line too,
which is Nishikawa San`s hot topic.
Nuda is an excellent place with reasonable prices
and chance to book without any advanced notice.
2011年 05月 08日
2011年 05月 01日